That car on Marketplace in Coral Springs looks clean in the photos. Photos don't show a flood car, a bent subframe, a transmission that slips when it's hot, or a check engine light somebody cleared this morning. I'm a mobile mechanic in Broward County. I drive to wherever the seller has the car — their driveway, a dealer lot, a condo garage — and I go through it before you hand over a dollar.
Pre-purchase inspections start at $150 for standard cars and light trucks. Luxury, European, high-mileage or more complicated vehicles run up to $250. Text me the year, make and model and I'll tell you the exact price before I head out. Travel anywhere in Broward County is included.
Same-day is normal in most of Broward. If I'm open and you catch me early, I can usually be at the car in 45 to 90 minutes. I cover every Broward zip — Fort Lauderdale 33301, Hollywood 33020, Coral Springs 33065, Pembroke Pines 33024, Miramar 33023, plus Plantation, Davie, Sunrise, Weston, Tamarac and everything in between.
Texting is faster. Send the year/make/model and where the car is, and I'll reply with a price and a time.
Scan Data I Pull Before You Hand Over Money
What My Pre-Purchase Vehicle Inspection Covers in Fort Lauderdale and Across Broward
Same list on every car, whether it's a $4,000 commuter or a $40,000 BMW. If you're wondering what to look for before buying a used car in South Florida, this is it.
Computer & Codes
- Full OBD-II scan — engine, transmission, ABS, airbag
- Readiness monitors (tells me if codes were just cleared)
- Check engine light history and freeze-frame data
Engine
- Oil level, color and condition
- Coolant level and color (milky = head gasket)
- Leaks — oil, coolant, transmission, power steering
- Cold start: knock, timing chain noise, rough idle, smoke
- Belts and hoses — Florida heat cooks them
Transmission
- Fluid level, color and smell
- Shift quality on the road test — slipping, delays, hard shifts, shudder
- Stored transmission codes
Brakes
- Pad thickness — how many miles are left
- Rotor condition — scoring, warping
- Brake fluid condition
- Brake lines — salt corrosion on coastal cars
Suspension & Steering
- Tie-rod and ball joint play
- Shocks and struts (bounce test, leaks)
- Control arm bushings
- Wheel bearing noise and play
Electrical & AC
- Battery health and charging system
- All lights, windows, locks
- AC vent temperature and compressor — critical down here
- Radiator fans kicking on at idle with the AC running
Tires
- Tread depth (2/32" is legal minimum — under 4/32" means tires soon)
- Uneven wear pointing to alignment or suspension
- Sidewall cracks, bulges and dry rot
Body, Frame & Flood
- Paint match and panel gaps (prior accident repair)
- Frame and undercarriage damage or rust
- Flood evidence — carpet padding, spare tire well, seat rails, connectors
- Seat belt stain line, tail light housings, under-dash corrosion
You get a written summary the same day with a rough repair cost for anything I find. If the car needs work after you buy it, I handle brakes, transmission service, AC and check engine diagnostics in your driveway.
- From $150 — standard cars and light trucks
- Up to $250 — luxury, European, high-mileage or more complex vehicles
Includes a same-day written summary and travel anywhere in Broward County. Exact price confirmed before I head out. Palm Beach County adds a small travel charge, quoted upfront. Cash or Zelle.
Text for your exact priceHow a Mobile Pre-Purchase Car Inspection in Broward Works
- Text or call (203) 549-7058 — send the year/make/model, where the car is, and a time window. I'll confirm the price.
- I drive to the car — seller's driveway, dealer lot, wherever it's parked. Same day in most of Broward.
- I inspect it on-site — 45–60 minutes at the car, every system on the list above plus a road test.
- You get a straight answer — a written summary the same day. What I found, what it'll roughly cost to fix, and whether I'd buy it.
Why a Used Car Inspection Matters More in South Florida
Cars down here look good on the outside. There's no road salt rotting the rockers like up north, so a clean body fools people. Meanwhile the heat, the water and the beach air are working on everything you can't see. A Carfax tells you what got reported. It doesn't tell you what happened. Finding the difference is most of what you're paying me for.
Flood and hurricane damage — the big one. Broward floods. Summer storms put water over the curb on Las Olas and in parts of Hollywood, king tides hit the east side, and every few years a named storm comes through. After big storms like Ian and Milton, flooded cars from the Gulf side get dried out and listed over here. A lot of them were never reported because nobody filed a claim. So I go looking:
- Carpet padding — I pull up an edge and check underneath for a waterline, silt or a musty smell air freshener can't cover.
- Spare tire well — the lowest point in the body. Mud and water lines collect there.
- Seat rails and seat belt bolts — rust that doesn't match the car's age. I pull the belt all the way out to check for a stain line.
- Connectors — inside the tail light housings and under the dash, looking for dried mud or green corrosion. Electrical gremlins six months after you buy are usually a flood car.
Heat that ages everything early. A car that sat outside in Florida has old rubber and plastic no matter what the odometer says. Cracked belt ribs, hoses that feel hard, dry-rotted tires with plenty of tread, a sagging headliner, brittle wiring. I also check the AC at the vent and watch the temp gauge at idle — a cooling system that's fine in January can overheat sitting on I-95 in August traffic.
Salt on coastal cars. Cars parked near the beach in Fort Lauderdale, Pompano or Deerfield, or used to pull a boat, rust underneath. Brake lines, fuel lines, subframe seams, suspension bolts. A rusted brake line is a safety problem that's cheap to spot and expensive to ignore.
Codes cleared this morning. I check readiness monitors, not just stored codes. If they're all "not ready," somebody disconnected the battery or cleared the computer recently. Usually that means a check engine light was on and they wanted it gone before you showed up.
Cold start, always. Sellers like to have the car warmed up and running when you get there. That hides startup rattle, timing chain noise, blue smoke and a rough idle. I ask for the car cold. If it isn't, I note it on your summary.
Red Flags I Find Most on Used Cars in Broward
Most used cars I look at have at least one thing the seller didn't mention. Not always because they're hiding it — a lot of people honestly don't know. These are the ones that cost buyers the most after the sale.
Transmission slipping under acceleration. The owner says "it's always done that." It shouldn't. Could be worn fluid, a bad solenoid or internal wear — anywhere from a $200 fix to a $4,000 rebuild. A road test tells me fast which side of that you're on. More on that on my transmission repair page.
Check engine codes that look innocent. An oxygen sensor code like P0135 or P0136 might be a $150 sensor. It can also be sitting in front of a catalytic converter problem that runs $500–$1,500. I read every code and confirm what's actually broken — see my check engine light diagnostic page.
Transmission fluid that's burnt or low. Burnt means it ran hot — often a leak or a clogged cooler, common after years of stop-and-go on I-95 in summer. Sometimes it's a $300 fix. Sometimes the transmission is on its way out and you're looking at $3,000. I check the fluid, find the leak and tell you which one you're buying.
Cooling leaks you won't catch on a short drive. A slow radiator or hose leak doesn't show up around the block. It shows up stuck on Sunrise Boulevard at 4PM in July when the gauge climbs and you cook a head gasket — $800 to $2,000. I check the coolant, pressure-test the system and look for drips and crusty residue.
Brake pads almost gone. "Brakes are fine." They stop the car — today. With 10% left you're buying pads and maybe rotors in a few hundred miles, $300–$600 right away. I measure the pads and check the rotors.
Loose steering from worn tie-rods. The wheel feels vague and the car wanders on the highway. Could be tie-rods at $400–$800, or other suspension parts too. I get the car up and check the wheels for play so you know what you're looking at.
I can't promise any used car is perfect, and I won't. What I can do is find the expensive stuff before it's your problem, so you can walk away, negotiate, or buy it knowing what's coming.
Independent Pre-Purchase Inspection in South Florida — What You're Paying For
A shop or dealer inspection usually means getting the seller to let the car leave, or driving it there yourself and waiting. A lot of those places make their money on the repairs they find. I come to the car, I'm not selling it to you, and I'm not pushing a repair list. You get what I found and what it costs.
Buying a $15,000 used car without an inspection is betting $15,000 to save $150–$250. That's a bad bet.
Buying something European? Read what I check on BMW, Mercedes and Audi, or my notes on BMW and Range Rover. Fleet managers: I also do fleet vehicle inspections on work trucks.
Pre-Buy Inspection in Hollywood, Coral Springs, Pembroke Pines, Miramar, Plantation and Davie
- Fort Lauderdale — dealer lots on Federal Highway and private sellers in Victoria Park and near the beach. Coastal cars get an extra look underneath for salt.
- Hollywood — condo garages and street parking east of 95, where flooding after a heavy rain is common.
- Coral Springs — lots of Marketplace and family SUVs. I meet you in the seller's driveway.
- Pembroke Pines and Miramar — the used lots along Pines Boulevard and 441, plus private sellers out west.
- Plantation and Davie — trucks, commuters and first cars for students. Same inspection, same written summary.
- Everywhere else in Broward — Weston, Sunrise, Tamarac, Pompano Beach, Deerfield Beach, Margate. Travel included.
What Broward Customers Say
"Hired Zxotic for a pre-purchase inspection. Great service, and very knowledgeable. I recommend"
— Davia Dally ✓ Google Review · Local Guide
"Quick service, reasonable price. Had me finished with service in about an hour and a half and double checked his work to ensure everything was done properly and all codes were cleared. I definitely recommend"
— Kadeeyah C. Roye ✓ Google Review · Local Guide
"Best customer service i ever had.. found the problem and executed it. Def recommend"
— Kareem George ✓ Google Review
The first review is from a pre-purchase inspection. The other two are from repair jobs. All three are real Google reviews from real customers — nothing bought, nothing written for me. Read more customer reviews.
Pre-Purchase Inspection Questions From Broward Buyers
How much does a pre-purchase car inspection cost in Broward?
From $150. Standard cars and light trucks start at $150. Luxury, European, high-mileage or more complex vehicles run up to $250. Text me the year, make and model and I'll give you the exact price before I head out. That price covers the drive to wherever the car is in Broward County, the code scan, the road test, the full inspection and a same-day written summary. Cash or Zelle.
Does the price change for luxury or European cars?
Yes, it can. A BMW, Mercedes, Audi, Range Rover or a high-mileage truck takes longer — more modules to scan, more known trouble spots to check, and more to get under. Those run up to $250. I quote the exact number when you text me the year/make/model, so there's no surprise when I get there.
How long does the inspection take?
45 to 60 minutes at the car, depending on what it is. Code scan, road test and a hands-on check of every system. You get a written summary of what I found the same day, and I walk you through it right there at the car.
How soon can you come out?
Same day in most of Broward. If I'm open and you catch me early, I can usually be there in 45 to 90 minutes. Otherwise it's next day. I work Monday to Saturday, 7AM to 8PM. Text 203-549-7058 with the year/make/model, location and a time that works and I'll confirm. Don't let a seller pressure you to "decide today" without an inspection — that's a red flag on its own.
Do you cover Palm Beach County?
Yes. Boca Raton, Boynton Beach, Lake Worth, West Palm Beach and Jupiter. Same inspection and same pricing by vehicle, plus a small travel charge that I quote upfront before I come out. Inside Broward there's no travel charge.
Can you inspect at a dealership or private driveway?
Both. I inspect on dealer lots all the time, and most reputable dealers allow it. Private sellers usually just want it done in their driveway, which is fine. I need room to look under the car and the OK to take it on a short road test.
What if the seller refuses the inspection?
Take that seriously. A seller with a good car doesn't mind a mechanic looking at it. If they're worried about a stranger at their house, offer to meet somewhere neutral like a parking lot where I can work safely. If they still won't allow it, or a dealer won't let you bring a mechanic, I'd walk away.
Does the seller need to be present for the inspection?
Ideally yes, so they can start the car and I can see a cold start. Some private sellers let you arrange access ahead of time. Either way, I need to drive the car briefly and get to the undercarriage.
What if I'm buying from a private seller, Facebook Marketplace or CarGurus?
Same inspection, same pricing by vehicle. It doesn't matter if the car is on a dealer lot on 441 or in somebody's driveway in Tamarac — I check it the same way.
Will the inspection help me negotiate the price?
Often, yes. Everything I find comes with a rough repair cost, so you're not asking the seller for a discount — you're showing them a number. Sometimes the inspection pays for itself on the first item. Sometimes the car is clean and you just buy it with peace of mind.
Can I get the inspection results in writing?
Yes. You get a written summary of what I found and what each item will roughly cost to fix. You can show it to the seller or get a second opinion with it. No pages of disclaimers — just what matters.
Can you check a car for flood or hurricane damage?
Yes, and in South Florida I check every car for it. I pull back carpet to look at the padding, check the spare tire well, seat rails, seat belts and electrical connectors for water lines, silt and corrosion. A clean history report doesn't rule out a flood car, because a lot of them were never reported.
What's the most common problem you find on used cars?
Transmission fluid problems — low, burnt or leaking. After that it's brake wear, check engine codes somebody cleared before the showing, and cooling system leaks. Down here, add flood damage and sun-baked rubber to that list.
Is a pre-purchase inspection worth it in Florida?
Yes — more than most states. Florida's heat, humidity and flood risk create problems that look fine on the surface. $150 to $250 is small next to finding a blown head gasket or slipping transmission after the sale. I can't promise any used car is perfect, but I can tell you what I find before you pay.
Text the year/make/model and location for same-day availability. Inspections from $150, exact price before I head out.
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